![]() ![]() The blocks I used for this are 12" by 8" "Olde Manor" garden blocks from Home Depot. This step covers the installation of my upper level blocks, but if you have a fairly even area to begin with the method shown here can be used to lay out all of your ground blocks. (There are region-specific regulations on these things, so your needs/requirements may vary.) I have about a 12-inch slope where I wanted my shed, so I put the upper half directly on blocks buried just slightly in the ground, and the other half up on elevated risers bolted to concrete pier blocks, similar to how a low deck would be built. This type of bit is a little pricey, and I don't recommend them general purpose drilling-only drilling holes for fastening screws.Ī small shed like this can just rest on the ground, but it is wise to first create level, firm contact points made from concrete pavers or landscaping blocks.įor an 8x8-foot layout, I recommend placing solid contact points at the corners and at the midpoints along each wall. See photo for the style of bits you should get if you don't already have some. See diagram above for the basics of fastening with screws. Using screws may take longer when framing versus using a hammer and nails or a nail gun, but you'll make up the difference in how forgiving they are once you make your first mistake and have to take something apart!īefore we get started, let's take short detour to briefly go over how to properly fasten things together with screws. These two tools are almost universally needed for any type of project, and are more than sufficient for building a small shed like this. Here's why:įor the average DIY-er, way up on the list of must-have tools are a decent corded drill (for drilling holes) and a decent cordless drill/driver (for driving screws). I used primarily screws for the entire assembly of my shed (even for framing the walls), and I highly recommend the average weekend builder do likewise. ![]() Air compressor with small brad nailer or stapler (very helpful for trim work).Circular saw (make sure it has a tilting base plate).Here are the basic tools required to build a shed like this: Large variety of fasteners (screws, nails, bolts, etc.).One gallon of Deck Restore paint for interior floor.Paint: one gallon of main color, one gallon of trim color.Several cartridges of Dynaflex 230 caulking.Landscaping garden blocks and anchor pier blocks.One 4圆 pressure treated post (I needed this for my sloped lawn).Two sheets 23/32" tongue and groove OSB.Fourteen 2圆 pressure treated 8-foot boards.Not everything is listed here (full details are contained in the individual steps) but this will give you a basic idea of what was used: This is a brief look at the supplies that were needed to build this. However, due to the additional supplies needed to build on my sloped lawn and because of a few upgrades, I ended up spending a little over $1200 on the materials for this. (As a side benefit, this design yields very little waste.) My goal was to build a shed that would be rock-solid and long-lasting, with a design that fully maximized my dollars-spent by taking advantage of common dimensions in building supplies. It's free, painless, and required in most locations. If you plan to do any digging you need to call the applicable buried utilities hotline in your area and have the various companies come out and mark where their lines run. In the city where I live, my 8x8x8-foot shed is considered an "accessory structure" and did not require a permit to build because it is 120 square feet or less, 8 feet tall or less, and not wired for power. Before you get too serious about building a shed, be sure to check with your local government to make sure you will be in compliance with any regulations regarding the building of a structure like this. ![]()
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